san cristóbal de las casas December 10, 2004
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so we made it to the top of the sierra madre of chiapas, and arrived at san cristobal de las casas. a beautiful colonial town full of mayan descendants selling their wares…
as we strolled in front of the cathedral dozens of kiddies jump on us to sell us their beautiful bracelets, belts and the like. cristina paid us special attentio, she could tell thet if she was friendly enough we are soft enough to buy anything…and thats exactly how it went: whenever she saw us, we chatted and by the end of the talk, we had more little subcomandante marcos dolls or bracelets. she taught us to say hello in her tolzec dialect and i tried to teach g¿her how to sell in english, so she could make the most of the economic power of the dollar, but it sounded like gibberish to her and she couldn´t stop giggling! so much for the lesson. mixed feelings about kids selling stuff all day, but what would they live off if they didn´t. indigenous people have a hard time making ends meet, and the message was honed in that night by the documentary about the zapatista movement we watched that night at cinema kinoki. we already knew things aren´t fair but the message of the film had a profound effect on me.
tomorrow we are off to palenque, time to melt miles, thats our mission from now to the end of the year, the reward: a caribbean reunion with our friends in costa rica! ITS OFFICIAL: WE ARE SEEKING A NEW YEARS CARIBBEAN REGGAE PARTY. If anyone has any tips, do let us know right here.
mazunte December 7, 2004
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we strolled around puebla and oaxaca trying all sorts of mole and observing the colonial architecture…my digital overdose gave me a bad fever and not much desire to see the sights. paralyzed and stunned aswell as feeling a fool for overdoing my digital fix.
4 days of illness and godknowshowmanykilometres later we arrived in mazunte, oaxaca. by then soheil had the cold sweats and it became my turn to look after him instead. his ailments are always a lot more intense, so he´s been in bed since we arrived…in the mean time i explore this mellow town on the hippie trail. a girl on her own easily finds friends, and so i got chatting to the mexican elf who lives in mallorca. we talked about this n that but i think the topic he liked best was unravelling the methods by which the locals seduced the gringas and how they allow themselves to fall, of course. within minutes of being on the beach i´d been offered all sorts of party favours, including moroccan hash (!), i guess the locals have their market clearly defined. neighbouring zipolite has been on european maps for ages whilst mexicans have ignored it a bit longer. mazunte is a lighter alternative, no nudist beach and the visitors less eager to find wild craziness (thats what i am told). mazunte is pretty, for sure, the prices are a little steep, but only by mexican standards, since they have you in their net, they make the most of it.
i snorkelled and marvelled with the crystal clear waters and the thousands of fishies i danced around with. you may think you´ve seen it all but theres always a novel combination of psychedelic colours and peculiar shaped fins to regale the eyes.